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This former chain pizza site has a pleasantly informal feel and a loyal following. Choose from tables near the windows, a wall seat in the minimally decorated dining room or a stool at the bar (our favorite). The sushi bar is a hive of friendly activity and a great place to learn about the intricacies of the fishy delicacy, but the menu also offers a range of fried, grilled and otherwise cooked Japanese specialties. On a recent visit, the chef recommended the albacore sushi: delicately carved white tuna atop a pat of wasabi-spiked rice, finished with scallion, zippy chili paste, lemon zest and a drizzle of lemon juice. The intense flavors interact perfectly with the smooth, cooling fish. It is difficult not to order about 10 more on the spot.