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Time travel, without the machine. The front room's lighting is subdued by a burgundy ceiling. Old paintings of the mother country (some crooked) line the walls. Patrons are local families with huge appetites. Count on the same traditional Italian cooking Venezia has prepared since 1947. Portions are enormous and filling. Seafood, veal, chicken and pasta dishes comprise the four-page menu. And the thin crust pizza is smothered in mozzarella. For a huge, yet very satisfying selection, try the trout Cynthia: flaky, light trout covered in a thick dill cream sauce with shrimp and crawfish and an unbutton-your-belt plate of spaghetti with red sauce on the side. Another winner is the eggplant Vatican, a fried eggplant shell filled with shrimp, crawfish and crabmeat in a dill cream sauce and served with a fettuccine Alfredo side.