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This unassuming, informal house renovation stays true to its residential roots. The hand-painted plates hung on deep ochre walls could be the work of some hip grandmother, who also serves mason jars of water on floral-clothed tables. Charming, familiar service is a hit with a patient, mostly-local crowd. Chef and owner Dick Benz recaptures the hearty, homestyle foods of your idealized youth, usually paired with a subtle contemporary twist. He reinterprets classic butter-rich barbecued shrimp with simultaneous nods toward Asia and Cajun country; fiery chili-garlic paste provides heat while, a rustic tasso flan offers a creamy, savory coolness. The butter-soft braised lamb shank--served with earthy cassoulet--does flavorful justice to the oft-bungled country-French genre dish. The emphasis here is unfussy Louisiana food with local ingredients: winter beet and Louisiana citrus salad is a standout. End your meal with a fresh-fried cake donut topped with maple-stewed apples.