R & O Restaurant

Shellacked plywood tables, grade-school holiday decorations and "Hey, sugar" service add up to an informal, family-friendly standby for an overwhelmingly local crowd. The main dining room runs toward the noisy, especially on weekend nights, when multifamily groups gather for birthday celebrations or "parents' night out."

Despite its name, R&O's is a perfect budget-seafood spot with plenty of house favorites. Start off with an order of french fries doused in rich, chunky beef gravy or a tart, salty Italian salad. Whether deep-fried or boiled, the kitchen takes its seafood seriously, with plates that border on gargantuan. Crispy, overstuffed po-boys rank among the best in town, whether soaked in gravy (roast beef), red sauce (chicken Parmesan) or slathered with mayo, lettuce and tomato ("dressed" fried shrimp or oyster). Italian offerings are also consistently strong, with sweetish pasta plates and hearty, bready pizzas offering even more choices.