When Emeril Lagasse revived this staid eatery--his third in town--he gave the old steakhouse a facelift (bamboo wall coverings upstairs, grand piano in the bar) while maintaining the original's Old-World polish. Loyalists flock here for scene and cuisine. Professional but sometimes fickle servers know how to spot and play to big spenders
Lagasse's trademark eclectic style is definitely the draw here, with a bit of homage to Delmonico tradition. Expect layer upon layer of powerful flavor--spicy chorizo sausage with robust Worcestershire, earthy roast duck with scallion-cheese grits--along with straight-ahead steakhouse favorites. The dry-aged rib-eye is a simple standout--perfectly seared and nearly fork-tender. The high-traffic kitchen can have its missteps, such as broken cream sauces on mushroom cannelloni. Tableside baked Alaska is heavier on flash than flavor; the nutty double-chocolate pie packs more punch for a more fulfilling finish.
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