St.Charles Tavern

Low-key and unpretentious, the tavern is dominated by a cluster of unadorned wooden tables. Tourists, students and a varied assortment of regulars, including law-enforcement types who usually hold court near the back, jam the dining room often and at odd times.

Regular Joe staples--breakfast (try the Belgian waffle), steaks, sandwiches--are served. New Orleans' favorites include gumbo and slightly watery red beans and rice redeemed by savory smoked sausage. Fried appetizers do their job without much fanfare, though a chili starter is the flavorful exception. The Cajun grilled chicken breast arrives slightly overdone, but is still very tasty. Crawfish fettuccine and a heavily seasoned Cajun burger are also good bets. Steaks come thick and juicy, just the way they should.