The gracious maitre d' ushers diners in to what feels like a 14-table private club. Candlelight plays off deep purple walls and white tablecloths, while denizens of the Uptown social set chat and toast. Though it feels exclusive, attentive servers make sure all who enter--even tourists--feel like members.
French/Creole-inspired plates are precise and beautifully balanced, yet still innovative. Grilled radicchio salad with celery, candied pecans and Roquefort vinaigrette is at once crunchy, creamy, sweet, and smoky. Peppered Gulf shrimp with Satsuma gastrique and duck confit with sherried flageolets are easy pleasers, while frog legs and a brandade cake are slightly more challenging. While seared Black Angus filet is one of the chef's signatures he shines at seafood. Especially good are the grouper with lobster risotto and snapper with gnocchi, wild mushrooms and spinach. Desserts, notably warm flourless chocolate cake and a caramelized banana split, easily measure up.
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